We finally made it to the beautiful city of Avignon with its magnificent Palais de Papes,
residence of the popes during much of the 14th century and we danced on the famous bridge "Sur le Pont d'Avignon". We decided to stay overnight as Avignon is 160 km from our cottage and managed 
to get a good deal on a hotel in the centre of the town. One can only surmise how different the city would be in the height of summer and the tourist season. While we were there it was very quiet, albeit cold, but at least we had sun on the first day.
residence of the popes during much of the 14th century and we danced on the famous bridge "Sur le Pont d'Avignon". We decided to stay overnight as Avignon is 160 km from our cottage and managed 
to get a good deal on a hotel in the centre of the town. One can only surmise how different the city would be in the height of summer and the tourist season. While we were there it was very quiet, albeit cold, but at least we had sun on the first day. 
Then on to Arles, 38 km south towards the Camargue. The countryside became quite flat as 
we travelled there. Arles has two UNESCO heritage listed sites - a Roman amphitheatre and theatre. Both are still being used for events, although major restoration is underway at both, with a budget running into many millions of euros. It was almost surreal standing in the Roman 
amphitheatre built 100 years BC and imagining all that has taken place there over the last 2100 years. It is in remarkably good condition and is now used primarily for bullfights. Unlike Spanish bullfights, though, the bulls in Arles don't get killed. Apart from a cafe and croissant (banana for Fran) in the morning in Avignon and a chocolat chaud at a cafe in Arles in the afternoon, we 
hadn't eaten much until 3:30 when we ate our picnic stuff (bought at the supermarche in Avignon) with the car bonnet serving as our table, before heading home. 
we travelled there. Arles has two UNESCO heritage listed sites - a Roman amphitheatre and theatre. Both are still being used for events, although major restoration is underway at both, with a budget running into many millions of euros. It was almost surreal standing in the Roman 
amphitheatre built 100 years BC and imagining all that has taken place there over the last 2100 years. It is in remarkably good condition and is now used primarily for bullfights. Unlike Spanish bullfights, though, the bulls in Arles don't get killed. Apart from a cafe and croissant (banana for Fran) in the morning in Avignon and a chocolat chaud at a cafe in Arles in the afternoon, we 
hadn't eaten much until 3:30 when we ate our picnic stuff (bought at the supermarche in Avignon) with the car bonnet serving as our table, before heading home. 
As time slips away, we continue to enjoy some of the small charming villages close by. Monday's drive to some little places yielded some novel rewards. We revisited the little village of Fox Amphoux, as the last time we were there, the heavens opened just as we arrived and we were forced to abandon our visit and take refuge in the car. This time, however, there was not a cloud in the sky and we lazily sauntered up and down narrow alleys and streets seemingly devoid of any life. As we tripped up the steps of a narrow little rue, we heard the faint strains of a classical guitar. We wondered if it was live music. It was. A young woman was sitting on the steps of a house in the full sunshine playing the guitar. We quietly stopped at some distance and stood listening to an impromptu concert. It was superb. When she stopped she saw us and we applauded and thanked her for the music. Then we were off again to another town, Montmeyan where we enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine, watching the antics of the local cats and dogs, and wondering why the locals were all inside at the bar. Throughout the village there were amazing streets, with stone arches and vaulted passageways. One was called the Passage de Templiers and you had to crouch down to get through its opening and it was very dark. No doubt it has been traversed by many throughout hundreds of years.
Our next stop was at Regusse where we 
could see some ancient looking windmills in the distance. As we arrived we noticed a group of high school students on an excursion. We walked past them exchanging the courteous and obligatory Bonjours and stepped inside the first mill which housed a small museum displaying some old farm implements and other historic artefacts. The local historian who had been talking to the group came inside and invited us to look at both mills. The second mill had sails attached and it had been totally restored, having been originally built in the 11th century and re-built during the 17th century. He was proud to show us how it worked and got the sails moving, inviting us upstairs to see the mechanism in full flight. Brilliant! As we were taking photos, the man scampered off, returning with a brochure in English as well as French and a little sack of ground flour bearing the name of the mill, Moulin de Regusse. He hastened to add that it was not for eating.
could see some ancient looking windmills in the distance. As we arrived we noticed a group of high school students on an excursion. We walked past them exchanging the courteous and obligatory Bonjours and stepped inside the first mill which housed a small museum displaying some old farm implements and other historic artefacts. The local historian who had been talking to the group came inside and invited us to look at both mills. The second mill had sails attached and it had been totally restored, having been originally built in the 11th century and re-built during the 17th century. He was proud to show us how it worked and got the sails moving, inviting us upstairs to see the mechanism in full flight. Brilliant! As we were taking photos, the man scampered off, returning with a brochure in English as well as French and a little sack of ground flour bearing the name of the mill, Moulin de Regusse. He hastened to add that it was not for eating.
Our final stop was at Moissac Bellevue, another village on a hilltop with stunning views over the countryside, an old Templiers chapel and some classy looking properties with electric fences. We were not sure whether the fences were to keep out wild boars or tourists, like us.
On another excursion we drove to Grasse, the world centre of perfume in the hinterland behind Cannes. Unfortunately the camera was left behind so we have no photos. Grasse is an attractive and interesting city built on the side of a long ridge in the Department of Alpes-Maritime. There are several parfumeries in the city as well as some in the surrounding countryside. We went for a guided visit of one of the factories and learnt how perfume is made. The people who create the perfume are called "Noses" and a minimum of 8 years study is required to become one, 5 years of chemistry followed by three years of study at an Institute of Perfumes. In addition one must have "the gift". The tests for acceptance into the Institute at Grasse are very tough. One of them involves the identification of 90 different essences within one hour. The Institute takes on only 10-12 students each year with only 3 of those making the grade. There are only 200 noses in the world - 50 of them are in France and 30 of those based in Grasse. We were shown the room where the nose works. In it is a desk, called an organ, set up with three rows of essences in bottles in a semi-circle (like organ stops) around the chair. Each essence is always located in the same place and they are in a specific order. The more intense essences which form the base fragrance are on the bottom row, with the shorter-lasting highlight essences (or head notes as they are called) on the top row. The nose blends the various essences to form each unique fragrance. Our guide, Margarita, was Russian but she could conduct the tours in any of four languages. Two noses worked for the factory we went to - both women.
As well as car excursions we have gone on a few peaceful walks along back roads and paths near Entrecasteaux, some on marked trails called Grand Randonnees each with a number (eg GR 99). These meander all through France. On one we had no idea where it would lead us and we probably walked for about 7 km before we arrived at one of the roads leading back to the village. It took us past houses, farms, vineyards and olive groves, high above valleys and sometimes through forest on both sides where the only sound was our footfall. Fran is still concerned about bumping into a wild boar whereas Adrian is more worried about the boar hunters. Still, we avoid walking on the weekends when the latter are out in force. Walking is a pleasant alternative to driving as both of us can enjoy the scenery and enjoy the many different vistas that open up along the route.
We had a very enjoyable evening with Bernard and Lucie and shared photos of each other's family. They have a beautiful home (with in-ground pool) nestled in the hills surrounding Entrecasteaux, tastefully and artistically decorated with many original paintings as Lucie is an artist. We were warmly welcomed and exchanged stories about travel, culture and cuisine throughout the evening. Much of the conversation was in French, although both Lucie and Bernard can speak some English. A wonderful opportunity such as this, to meet and share a delicious meal with some local French people is more likely when staying in a small village and will remain another great memory for us to cherish from our time in France.
No comments:
Post a Comment