La Fete de L'Insolite

It was with some trepidation that we prepared to go out to our first social engagement at a French person’s home. Having read all sorts of advice on etiquette regarding what to do, what not to do, whether or not to bring a gift and if so, what, etc, we were in fear of offending our hosts. However, when we arrived Norah and Benoit made us feel very comfortable, we got our first double-cheeked kiss and we had a really enjoyable evening. After aperitifs in their garden they took us on a tour of their village, Luzech, telling us some of its history. Luzech is located in the tightest loop of the Lot river. When the river was the major means of transportation in the 19th century, negotiation was very hazardous. Norah explained that the tiny church located along the curve of the river was where the locals prayed for the safe return of the brave batelieres (boatmen). As a solution to this problem, a canal was built thereby bypassing the big loop around the town. The canal has been since filled in and is now the main street. The evening extended beyond aperitifs. After the village tour we were served a four-course dinner which we were not expecting. Norah went to a lot of trouble and is a very good cook. Fran’s dietary requirements presented few problems, although she missed out on a delicious home made apple tart, enjoying pear ice-cream instead. We plan to return the hospitality in the weeks ahead.

Following the installation of the doors at each end of our street which was re-named La rue des Reflets, various mirrors were attached to the stone walls together with some unusual decorations such as wicker furniture, bundles of long thin branches and various wall hangings and paintings. As the “keepers of the street” we were charged by the festival organisers to lock it at both ends before we went to sleep each night and then open it up again when we woke up. Outside on the cale, a flag pole had been erected. Other streets had been decorated in different themes with one being La Rue des synonyms, and another La Rue des voiles (veils). Other unusual sculptures and objets d’art were strategically placed in the squares, streets and the primary school yard. The weekend started with a Bienvenue drink and nibblies in the square outside the Mairie. We joined in with the locals and other visitors and tourists. The atmosphere was enlivened by a drum and percussion group, although their playing went on for so long that most people drifted off to hook into the free food and wine.

The main event to which we had bought tickets kicked off at 7:00 on Saturday evening in the Place de la Cale with a concert involving children, teenagers and adults. The adults play involved a character who had had his head chopped off. When he came onstage, they had a meal while discussing his predicament, during which time they poured his soup down his neck through a funnel. It was very funny, if somewhat unusual. (That's the door to our cellar in the background.)

At that hour the sun was still high in the sky and quite hot. Long trestle tables and chairs had been set up and people grabbed a seat wherever they could find one. After much deliberation we sat next to a couple in their 60s. They were there on their own, rather than with their families or friends. As expected they were French and spoke no English. Communication was challenging but we managed to chat thanks to Fran’s basic but adequate French. Fran managed to understand a little of what was said although as the man had a David Boon moustache, no lip reading was possible. They lived in Cahors, 30 km away, and had both retired. Previously they had lived in Paris. Fran recognised the lady on her other side as the woman who had served us a few days ago at the Patisserie. She spoke French more slowly and the communication was far easier. We shared some jokes about our difficulties with the French language and Fran told them about her haircut “with nappies”, which they found quite amusing.

The meal was very unusual. We started with a local apperitif which has nuts as one of its ingredients, served with a packet of cracker biscuits, followed by half a melon, then some haricot beans and pork strips in a bowl, followed by some barbecued lamb (not the best we’ve tasted). Dessert was two nectarines each. Of course, bread and wine accompanied the meal.

The piece de resistance took place after dark at about 10:30 p.m. It was a pretty amazing spectacle with fireworks and actors on bouncy stilts wearing bizarre costumes and makeup. The area outside our house provided the major stage, with lots of smoke billowing from the fireworks. We were glad that we had opted to attend the event although, as we had left our kitchen window ajar, we thought that the smoke detector might go off and add an extra element of theatre. Not to worry - the pompiers were close at hand. To close the evening there was a presentation of historical images of Puy l’Eveque. These were projected on the wall below our bedroom window, which you can see in the photo below on the right with smoke everywhere.

The festival continued throughout the next day and we attended a musical concert in the little church nearby featuring two guitarists and a female singer. One of the guitarists also sang with very interesting harmony and rhythm. About 200 chairs were set up on the cale for another concert involving drums and percussion on the stage (which used to be an old loading dock) directly under our bedroom window. This photo was taken from the window.